Appalachian Trail Katahdin

I left Rangeley and did the Saddlebacks that evening. The weather was nice and I had great views walking along the ridge. The next day it rained the entire day. I fell hard twice, once I landed in the pushup position and I would've been hurt bad if I didn't catch myself. Because of the rain I got a bunk that night at the Maine Roadhouse hostel. For $35 I got a bunk, shuttle to and from the trail, laundry, dinner and breakfast. The hostel was one of the best I've seen and the two women, who'd just opened it, were super nice. After drying my gear and getting a bed for the night I left for the Bigelow mountains. They were wooded on top but had great views of lakes below.

On Pierce Pond there is a hunting camp near the trail. It's rustic from the1930's. They offer a pancake breakfast with sausage and eggs for $11 to hikers. The camp was cool. There was a pool table and a bunch of musical instruments for people to play. I had breakfast there then kept going the Kennebec River. At the river there is a guy in a canoe that ferries people across. I was there at 9am to catch a lift. 

After a couple more days hiking I got to Monson. Monson is the last town before the Hundred Mile Wilderness. I stayed at a hostel in town and resupplied before going into the wilderness. At this point I was around 115 miles from Katahdin. While at the hostel I ran into a guy named Sailor Jack who'd I'd seen on and off the last couple months. We ended up hiking through the wilderness together then summitting Katahdin on the same day.

The 100 Mile Wilderness used to be 100 miles with no services or major roads. Now people get food drops in the middle or slack pack some of it. Food drops are arranged through hostels. You pack a box with what you want then call them from a mountain top and they drop the food off at a road. It was a beautiful 100 miles with a couple mountains but also a lot of walking around lakes. It was much easier hiking compared to southern Maine. Along with the Presidentials in New Hampshire, the 100 Mile Wilderness is somewhere I'd like to visit again.  

Coming out of the 100 miles I didn't know what to expect. We walked out of the woods onto a dirt road that felt like the middle of nowhere. There was nothing I could see but a bridge to the right. We walked that way and crossed the Abol bridge to find the camp general store. We were pumped. There was food, beer, and ice cream. That day we hiked 29 miles by 6pm to get to the store before they closed at 7. 

The next day we summitted Katahdin. We left from Abol Pines and stopped in at Baxter Park to register before going up. The number on my registration card was 186, meaning I was the 186 NOBO thru hiker to finish this year. That has nothing to do with speed, since someone could have started a month before or after me, but it gives an idea of how many have done it so far. 

My family picked me up from Maine and I had a blast with them RV camping. 

The trip lasted from March 27 - July 27. 

During my final days of hiking there were so many thoughts going through my head that I wanted to talk about. Now, after being off the trail for a few days, they all seem so insignificant. The Appalachian Trail is a different world than the real life most people are used to. It's like a ferry tail where people have special names and travel through a trail meeting and re-meeting each other. People hike in completely different ways. For me I wanted to hike it in a way that was challenging and tested me mentally. Others have fun screwing around, taking lots of time to hang out in towns, and take a lot more time to finish. What I'm saying is the AT offers what a person wants and everyone is looking for something different. I thought it was tough. Hiking through the rain got to me. Mentally it pushed my limits at times, especially the wet feet. But I remember some of my happiest moments on the trail were in my tent exhausted after what felt like a never ending day. 

Towards the end of my trip I met quite a few interesting people. I met the Sutton Family who are a mom and dad doing the trail with their 5 year old son Harvey. They had to ask for special permission for Katahdin because normally 6 year old is the limit. I also met a guy named Shoes walking the trail barefoot. He was a flip flopper who I met coming south in Maine. I also met a guy who always wore jeans named Denim Dan. I can't imagine hiking the trail in jeans. 

Now it is time to go back to the real world, which I'm excited to do. I'd recommend anyone to do the trail or at least sections of it. I plan on returning to parts for sure. Not only was the AT cool but so many of the small towns were great. I got to see a lot of rural towns that I never would have. People were so generous along the way. It was a great trip.

   

AT - 1972 - Rangeley, ME

Massachusetts went by quick. Another friend and his girlfriend came and hiked with me for a couple days to do Greylock, which is the highest mountain in the state. When they left I was walking through town in the rain to get a bite to eat.

At mile 1700 I got to Vermont. I’ve done the first 100 miles of the AT in Vermont when I did the Long Trail, but I did it again. I hiked with some LT hikers for those miles and took my time. It was nice to do smaller miles and swim in all the ponds. There were a couple hot days but the hiking was fairly easy. Right before entering New Hampshire there was a 30’ bridge jump. It was awesome. I was nervous standing on the edge but another hiker was there so we both jumped before hesitating too long. Then my brother-in-law picked me up. I zeroed 4 days in Vermont with family and friends over 4th of July weekend.

After the long weekend I started hiking into New Hampshire. The White Mountains in New Hampshire were by far the toughest part of the trail so far. I had difficult days before NH, mainly because of big miles or numerous days in the rain, but the hiking was the hardest in NH. That being said it was my favorite part so far. The Presidential range was amazing. Throughout the Presidentials there were huts that people paid $80-120+ a night to stay in. The nice thing was thru hikers got the leftover food. When I hiked over Mt. Washington I got the best weather I could ask for. It wasn’t too windy or rainy. Then a few of us stealth camped near Pinkham visitor center and got an all you can eat breakfast for $13. Next was Wildcat Mtn, which was pretty tough as well.

I’ve been in Maine for a few days now and it’s great. I went through Mahoosuc Notch a couple days ago. It’s said to be the hardest mile of the trail and I’d agree. On both sides there are steep cliffs upwards. It’s a rock scramble through the notch over and under huge boulders. I had to take off my pack at least twice to get through small squeezes. That one mile of the trail exhausted me and took me a solid hour. 

Today I came into town to shower, do laundry and resupply. I hadn’t showered since Gorham or done laundry since Lincoln. I was well over do. I plan on finishing within a couple days of the 27th of July, which means I need to make pretty good time. It’s been great hanging out in town for a couple hours and having some beers. I’ve got 3.5 day worth of food and plan on doing about 69 miles before my next resupply. 

Lately there have been more SOBOs on the trail than NOBOs. It’s strange seeing such fresh people. They keep saying that us NOBOs don’t look happy and we have a glazed over look, also that we’re condescending. They have a point, but also we’ve been on the trail for months. I put on the same wet clothes and wet shoes every day. It’s nearly impossible to be cheery when most of the time all I want is a good shower and clean clothes. But still I’m glad to be here and happy I’ve had the chance to do such a cool trip.

I saw a moose on the trail yesterday. It was super cool. I spooked her and she ran off. Surprised me in the morning when I was still waking up but pretty neat.

AT - 1502 - Salisbury, CT

The drive in movie theater in Warwick was great. They let me pitch my tent and gave me a radio to listen to one of the three double features they offered, all for free. The next day it rained all day. I slipped on a rock and fell. It was my 3rd or 4th time falling, but it really put me in a bad mood. Walking on slick rocks isn't fun and it can be pretty dangerous. Around 4 pm that day I decided to hitch into Greenwood Lake for a beer. I hung out for a few hours and by the end my tab was $10 because so many people had bought me drinks. A couple in their 60s offered me a couch to sleep on that night because it was supposed to rain all night. They bought me pizza, beer, let me shower, then dropped me off on the trail in the morning after cooking me breakfast. It's amazing how nice people can be to hikers, they were some of the nicest I've met.

My friend Buck flew out to NYC to hike with me, so I went into the city to meet him. I took a commuter train in from Pawling NY. It was surprisingly easy and the train cost me less than $20. He had never been to the city so we spent a couple days checking out Brooklyn and Manhattan. We rented bikes and went to the Battery, Central Park, Grand Central, and Times Square. Then we took the train back out to Pawling and he hopped on the trail for a week. He got to experience hitch hiking and the hiker lifestyle. There was also a fair amount of rain, which gave him a good taste of how difficult it can be. 

After zeroing (a day with no miles on the AT) yesterday Buck and I parted ways. He's heading to Albany to fly out tomorrow. I hit mile 1500 today and I'll head into Massachusetts either today or tomorrow. Another friend is meeting me in 55 miles on June 21, so I'm taking it slow until then. Over the last few weeks my pace has slowed considerably. It's difficult to arrange meetings with friends if I move too quick. I enjoy doing long days and bigger miles, but it's also nice to slow down and soak it all in. Being able to share the experience with a friend was certainly worth the slow down. Another added bonus is that I am starting to see people I had passed that are catching up. This has been a learning experience, figuring out what pace works, and I've found that there is much more to this trail than getting it done as fast as possible.

There have been a ton of ticks lately. I've gotten at least 3 on myself. A few days ago I sprayed my clothes with Permethrin, which is supposed to help keep them off. When I hitched back to the trail this morning the woman who gave me a ride was telling me all about the numerous illnesses she got from ticks. It freaks me out a bit, but what else can I do besides spraying my gear? I find it's best not to focus too much on all the things that could go wrong. I don't like snakes either and luckily I've only seen one rattle snake so far. No bears yet, with the exception of the two I saw near Fort Montgomery in a zoo that the AT goes through.

The weather is mid 70s and sunny today. I couldn't ask for any better. After spending so much time in the rain I really appreciate the nice days. On days like this there is nowhere I'd rather be than hiking in the woods. This town, Salisbury, is so close to the trail that I figured I'd stop in for lunch then head back out. Plus I have some time to kill in order to meet up with my other friend. I'm on my third pair of shoes and they are broken in, so my feet feel good. Blisters and wet feet can definitely make the experience less enjoyable.  Surprisingly I haven't lost any weight, most people do. I feel great and the easy days lately have given me plenty of recovery time. Now I need to find a way to keep my pace slow to meet my friend so maybe I'll try to find a lake that I can take another zero or two at. 

AT - 1365 - Warwick, NJ

It rained for three days in a row last week. On the first night of rain, the inside of my tent was soaked by the time it was setup because it was raining so hard. The next night I split a motel in Wind Gap and dried out all my gear. Then I continued through Delaware Water Gap then up to  AOC.

 

I'm not going to finish this, I only have a few minutes left. Right now I'm sitting in a library in Warwick, NJ. Lately there have been a lot of towns on the trail. I've stopped at a place for lunch and had a beer the last three days. Tonight I plan on sleeping at a drive in movie theater that lets thru hikers camp for free. There's a grocery store down the street from there. 

 

I smell pretty bad. I did laundry today but I could use a shower. I have a free hotel stay coming up in 40 miles, which is much needed. I plan on hanging out there most of Saturday into Sunday.

Around 1200 miles I got burnt out on hiking. I'd been moving fast and everything felt rushed. I took several shorter days lately and have chilled out. I've talked to other hikers who experienced the same thing. It got boring and I stopped having as much fun. 

Now it's fun to go into towns for random meals or services. I have no shame to plug my phone into a Walmart and hang out sorting my groceries. I try not to be too crude. Thru hikers are pretty bum like to be honest.

A shuttle is picking me up in a couple minutes to bring me to the drive in. The lady who brought me down charged me $14. We'll see what's cheaper.

AT - 1113 - Mount Holly Springs, PA

I hitched a ride into Mount Holly Springs this afternoon. I'm at a library with a keyboard for the first time this hike. It's nice.

Today I passed the halfway mark for mileage. I have a couple stories to tell but I want to mention some trail slang first. I didn't make any of these up and people use them all the time.

white blaze - White blazes are painted on trees to show the AT.

blue blaze - They show the way to things like alternate routes, overlooks, water or shelters.

yellow blaze - The road, for instance if someone skips miles hitchhiking. 

pink blaze - Following women on the trail.

aqua blaze - Using a boat to skip miles.

slackpack - Using a small pack for the day. Usually a hostel will shuttle people so they carry less weight.

tramily - Trail family, group of people you hang out with. 

wa wa - Water. I can't stand this one, luckily it's not used too often

hiker trash - A smelly hiker who has been in the woods a while. Usually looking for a ride to town and an outlet to plug their phone in. 

trail magic - Free stuff like food or drinks people hand out on road crossings.

trail angels - People who help out hikers.

Some of the guys I hiked with leaving Daleville were Push, 2 Steaks, Flavor Packet, and Skywalker. Flavor Packet got his name because he thought the oxygen absorber packet in Mountain House meals was a flavor packet. People get strange names out here. 

I lost most of those guys after a little while. I stayed with Skywalker a longer. One day I was ahead of Skywalker and trying to hitch a ride to a small store in Virginia. I tried for 45 minutes with no luck. He showed up, sat down, said 'what you looking for a ride?', stuck out his thumb and a car going the other direction flipped around and pulled up within seconds. I was annoyed but pumped to get going.

I had my longest day hiking to Seely-Woodworth Shelter. I hiked 34 miles and had to use my headlight for the end. I could hear coyotes yelping and didn't want to look around with my headlamp to see their eyes. I was tired getting to the shelter, but luckily I had it to myself.

After leaving Stanimal's Hostel in Waynesboro I was with a small group and my friend OD. OD (Overdose) started the same day as me and we'd hung out a bit but hadn't hiked together for more than a few days up to this point. OD's goal is to finish the AT in 90 days. The group we hiked with for a day were really fast. One of the guys hiked 20 miles by noon with a full pack, which I wouldn't have believed but I saw it. 

Overdose and I traveled together through the Shenandoahs. The hiking was mellow and there were waysides throughout the mountains. It was easy to pick up food for resupplies and there were lots of hikers around. 

After the Shenandoahs OD and I rented a car to drive down to Tail Days in Damascus. On the way we stayed at his family's property to shower and do laundry. Trail Days was a good time. There were vendors, a tent city, music, free food and a ton of hikers. We stayed for one of three nights because OD needed to get back and the car had to be back by noon on Saturday. Our tents were set up in a big open field, part of tent city. Then there was another part that was back in the trees. Different tramilies had camps all over. Many of them offered free booze and food. People even name their tramilies like; Riff Raff, Ridge Runs, or 20 milers. People are really into this stuff. There was a drum circle going on all night.

OD and I left Trail Days at 7am on Saturday and made it back to Enterprise just 10 minutes late. Luckily the assistant manager was still there. After that we walked through some busy intersections to Walmart and then a trail angel gave us a ride back to Keys Gap. Then we walked the 6 miles on the AT to Harper's Ferry.

We stayed at the Town Inn in Harper's Ferry. It's a 200 year old building. I thought the town was great and full of history. 

A couple days ago OD and I split. He's going to push hard to get done as soon as possible. I decided to slow down a bit and take it easier. It was great traveling with him and maybe I'll see him down the trail.

The trail has been far less busy lately. I had a shelter to myself last night. Some locals told me I'm a about two weeks ahead of the bubble. It's nice that I don't have to scavenge for a campsite anymore.

Now the library is closing and I need to figure out how to get back to the trail. It's around 3 miles, hopefully I can get a ride. 

AT - 730 - Daleville, VA

The weather has been warmer lately. A few days ago the temperature was in the 80s for two days. The trees haven’t fully formed the canopy, referred to as the “green tunnel”, so the warm weather was exhausting. It’s been nice lately.

A lot has happened since Irwin but I’ll try to summarize some highlights. I’d been waiting for a computer with a keyboard to use, but every hotel’s guest computer has been broken and I haven’t been able to get to a library. So this is all done via texting.

Near the road 19E I had a strange time. There was a tent next to a busy road. I thought that’s weird, it’s so loud. I kept walking. Later someone told me the guy staying there was firing off rounds in the night and someone called the cops. So I went through the area as quick as possible. After that I stayed at a donation based hostel called Kincora. I showed up an no one was there. Later a couple more hikers showed up and the owner. I think the hostel started in 1997. It is one of the older hostels. A bit run down but an awesome place to stay. The owner, Bob Peoples, is kind of a legend.

Fifty miles after Kincora I stayed in Damascus. The trail goes right through town. I stayed at a cool hostel called Broken Fiddle. In a couple weeks Damascus will host Trail Days, which is a huge hiker party. The entire town will fill up with tents in every park. Damascus also had a nice diner that was filled with hikers in the morning. The town is about 1/4 way from the start of the trail as I entered Virginia.

I went through Grayson Highlands during a snowstorm. I had already sent my rain pants home so I did it in shorts. It was cold the entire day and I went through quick. There were wild ponies all over the mountains. It was really cool. Unfortunately my hands were so cold I didn’t take many pictures. I passed the 500 mile marker that day.

After Grayson Highlands I spent a night at Partnership Shelter. We ordered pizza delivery because it was close enough to town. I heard that was the only shelter you could get delivery on the trail, which made it a good stop.

I had to get to Wytheville from the trail to get to a Walmart a few days ago. It was off the trail about 15 miles. I walked passed the road I needed so I hitched back. Some guys picked me up in a truck and offered me a beer. They couldn’t drive me all the way because they’d been drinking but they dropped me in a better location. I got a shuttle and made it to town and back. I also got to meet up with a couple trail friends in Wytheville and had enough points for a free Holiday Inn stay.

Yesterday was one of the nicest hikes I’ve had yet. I did around 26 miles through amazing cliffs overlooking rolling hills and pastures. I split a room last night at the Howard Johnson last night with another hiker.

I took the name Steady, so that’s what people call me out here. I’ve been doing around 20 miles a day more or less lately. There are more and more people doing similar mileage so I’ve seen a lot of familiar faces. 

At this point I’m used to hiking everyday. It’s become my normal day to day life. Every three to five days I stay in town or at hostels for a shower and laundry. I sleep either in my tent or a shelter depending on how crowded places are. People are more spread out lately and the ones still thru hiking are more serious than they were a few hundred miles ago. I’m nearly 1/3 done now. I’ve found a good comfortable pace, which is quick but as they say out here “hike your own hike.” My shoes are falling apart. They are still my first pair but I ordered new ones and had they shipped to a hostel 80 miles away. 

Today I’m taking it easy. I told my buddy I’d wait here and eat lunch with him. After that I’ll probably try to get some miles in. It’s supposed to rain for a few days coming up. Hopefully it’s not too bad and I don’t think it’ll be cold.

 

AT - 344 - Erwin, TN

Leaving Franklin I had nice weather hiking for a couple days into the NOC (Nantahala Outdoor Center). It was a tough downhill and climb out of a valley with a river. The NOC is a rafting facility with a gear shop and general store. I needed a permit to enter the Smokies, which the NOC printed for me.

Before entering the Smokies I resupplied at the Fontana marina on the Fontana dam. Then I stayed a night camping at the Fontana Springs Shelter nicknamed the Hilton because they have a shower, bathroom, and it’s big and nice.

I crossed Fontana dam and went into the Smokies on April 7. In the Smokies you need to stay at shelters the entire time so that limited my choices for where to sleep. Because it was crowded at shelters and I’d finished my book I pushed through the Smokies in a few days, leaving just before dawn on the 10th. Also a bear attacked a tent, so I couldn’t stay in that shelter, meaning it was a long day having to skip the shelter. I don’t think the guy got hurt but I heard it took several backpackers to scare the bear away. On my second day in the Smokies I took the wrong trail for an hour and a half before realizing and turning around. It was near the end of the day and I wasn’t paying close attention.

Coming out of the Smokies I didn’t have enough food to make it to Hot Springs, the next resupply town about 33 miles away. But I got lucky with some trail magic at 2 places. One group cooked me a chicken quesadilla and a bunch of food to go. Then 3 miles later another group gave me a couple chili cheese hotdogs, fruit and salad. After eating two lunches it was raining but I kept going in order to make it to Hot Springs at a reasonable time the next day.The trail goes right through the town. I resupplied at Dollar General and had a burger, wings and a salad at the tavern and kept going. 

Yesterday, 2 nights north of Hot Springs, I met up with a guy I’d hiked with the day I entered The Smokies. I’d lost him when I took the wrong turn. I met another one of his buddies at the camp site last night and today we got Mexican in Erwin Tennessee.

Most people have trail names at this point. I still do not. One guy suggested Steady, but I haven’t gone by that. I think I’ll see in a bit. I met a couple ladies in their 70s that went by Golden Girls. They’d done 14 miles the day I met them on a mountain top. It’s impressive some of the people on the trail. All sorts, young, old, large or small. Just a bunch of people who like to hike.

The weather has been much warmer. At night it gets chilly but not too bad. It’s been raining quite a bit but that’s normal for the area. 

Today a woman gave me a ride for free into town. She picked up my friends and brought us to the Mexican place. I’ve been avoiding crowded shelters but there are plenty of nice people. Feels like I’m beginning to get my trail legs and adapting to life on the AT. 

AT - 109 - Franklin, NC

 Today I got picked up by a “trail angel” at winding stair gap outside Franklin North Carolina. He brought me to my hostel, to a post office, to Walmart, bought me beers and a tshirt at a local brewery. All that just because he’d hiked a big section of the trail and wanted to help out. I’ve gotten “trail magic” a few times where people wait at roadsides to hand out fruit, donuts, or cokes. People love the trail and are super nice.

It was a tough first week. One day I woke up to pouring rain and my tent under a couple inches of water. The next day my boots were frozen solid. It’s been low twenties for a few nights. But tonight I’m in a bed and clean and comfortable. After a week in the woods it was needed.

I hiked through Georgia and I’m 109 miles into the trail. I have blisters and my legs hurt. But it’s great. 

I had no idea what the AT means to so many people. They just want to talk and help and connect with hikers. In the middle of no where there will be some guy in a truck on a back road that gives me a coke.

I’ll try to do a better job in my next post because this hike is difficult to explain. I’m pumped that I made it through Georgia and ready to get back on the trail.

Appalachian Trail Prelaunch

     In two days I fly to Georgia to attempt thru hiking the Appalachian Trail. The last few days have been nerve-racking because I took a hard fall snowboarding. Last Sunday I was at Silverton, hit some rocks, and rag dolled down the mountain. I came to in my car pretty foggy. I don't remember the fall or getting to my car but the people I was with told me what happened. I'm happy to say this morning I woke up feeling great. 

    I'm nervous about the AT. It's over 2,100 miles going from Georgia to Maine. But I've realized something over the past few days. This experience isn't about how quickly I move or how far I go. It's about enjoying every day doing something that I love. I need to pull myself back into the present moment and not think about what comes after or what I'm giving up. This is the trip of a lifetime.

    My first thru hiking attempt was the Long Trail in 2012. I started in the north and made it 3 days before giving up. In 2018 I completed the trail starting from the south. The Long Trail is 272 miles going through Vermont. I'm proud that I went back and faced the challenge that had beaten me.

    Now approaching this trip I took a hard hit. I got my confidence shaken and went through a tough time. The people I was with at Silverton didn't handle the situation in a way I'm comfortable with so unfortunately I may have lost some friends over the ordeal. 

    Yesterday I moved nearly everything I own into a 5x5 storage unit. Part of me thinks 'wow that's really all I have', but I guess that's my style, I don't want a lot. I think about the adventures I've had and how much I've sacrificed in life to do them and every single time I came out a better person. Quitting my job wasn't easy. Moving out wasn't easy. You'd think it gets easier over time, but it's still hard.

      There is another part of this trip that gets me excited, I have a business idea. I want to start a company to supply backpackers with food for multi-day trips making planning and resupplying as easy as possible. The name I went with is Para Llevar. It means "to carry out" in Spanish. Working with Spanish speakers in restaurant kitchens they always used the phrase if food was to go. I had the idea for the business when when I was hiking the Long Trail and an AT hiker was saying how much he disliked resupplying in town. I don't know if the business will work, but the the best way I can find out is to go and try. I have a partner who has been a great help along the way. She's done all the things that I'm terrible at, like building a website, and she's preparing to help make it happen.

    At this point I have not planned anything past my shuttle to Springer Mountain from Atlanta. I downloaded an app called Guthook that tells how far it is to towns, water sources, and other amenities. I also bought a PDF copy of AWOL, which is another guide. I invested in a new ultra-light backpack and got my base weight down to around 20 lbs. I'm sure on my first attempt at the LT my pack was twice the weight.

    When I reserved my shuttle to Springer Mountain the driver, who thru hiked the AT, asked if I knew what I was getting into. I told him I had hiked the Long Trail and his tone immediately changed. He was like "Oh ok, well I heard the northern part of that trail is no joke, so you know what you're getting into." His remarks were a huge confidence boost. I know this will be hard. There will be cold nights, wet feet, and days I feel like giving up. But I'm excited. There is no telling who I'll meet or what I'll learn. Now I'm ready. I wasn't ready yesterday. I second guessed my decision to quit and leave, but that's all fading away. Now it feels like there are limitless possibilities on the horizon.

Back in the US

London was a good time. I hung out with Rob and checked out where he grew up in Windsor. He also showed me around London and introduced me to some of his friends. It was interesting to see where a good friend that I met traveling grew up. Most of the time I meet people abroad and we get along well, but never get to see where each other came from. Seeing Rob again was immediately a comfortable feeling where neither of us had to work to make conversation happen. It’s a strange experience going from not knowing a person to spending everyday with them for three months.

I’ve been back in the US for a little over a month. Usually I don’t do blog posts while at home but I feel it’s a good idea to describe the feeling of being home from this trip in particular. I just got back into Denver and I find myself slipping into my old routines and habits. This scares me because there was a reason I left. I was in a rut and needed change. I’m really going to try hard to be better than I was and to remember the things I learned traveling. Sometimes I get distracted by little issues in life and forget how lucky I am to have the life I do. As Americans, I think we sometimes take what we have for granted. I’ve been very fortunate to have a great family, an education, and to live in a country that provides opportunities. So many people I’ve seen don’t know where their next meal will come from, don’t have transportation, and don’t have access to medical care. I’m not saying its perfect here and there is certainly a great deal of inequality, but most of us aren’t living in rural huts praying for enough rain that we’ll have corn to eat.

I find myself daydreaming and spacey lately. I’ll be having a good time then its like I get slapped in the face and remember how unfair the world is. There are so many people starving, yet I just play dumb and go buy another $8 beer at the bar. Most of us just ignore what’s going on in different parts of the world because for unknown reasons we feel entitled to what we have. Recently two Africans I met have contacted me asking for help with money. I’m not sure what I’ll do. Giving people money isn’t a long-term solution. Yet I do feel guilty because I’m still spending money on things I don’t need.

Another big issue I’ve been dealing with is getting used to having a cell phone. During my trip I never had a phone. I had an iPad, but it didn’t have a data plan, so I needed wifi to connect. Now I’m connected nearly everywhere I go.  Sometimes I’ll sit at a table with friends and many of them just stare at their phone.  I can’t say I’m immune though. If I’m waiting or bored I catch myself staring at my phone. Smart phones have the potential to make people detached from reality. Whenever we feel socially awkward we just stare at the screen. Sometimes its nice to feel out of place and awkward. That way we learn how to deal with that type of situation and aren’t forced to pretend we’re so important that we need to check our phones constantly.

Traveling has shown me some things I dislike about the American culture. For one it’s not whether what we have works, but often we want our things to be nicer than the person next door. There is a competition to outdo each other materialistically. This leads to a great deal of waste and an ugly consumerist culture. Another thing that is apparent while traveling is how opinionated and ignorant many Americans can be. It’s usually easy to pick out the Americans in a room full of international travelers. Typically they’re the loudest people in the room, who seem to just be talking to hear their own voice. While traveling I put an effort into keeping up with both American and international news. I also try to keep my tone down and be open to changing my opinion in discussions. The majority of Americans I met abroad aren’t very well informed, yet they will argue their point and use volume to compensate for their lack of knowledge. I try my best to be the atypical American while traveling.

Some of my points about Americans may be considered offensive, but this is what I’ve seen from experience. My views are constantly changing and every time I’m proven wrong I learn something new. I’d be more than happy to discuss these things with people that disagree. It’s not a bad thing to be proven wrong.

It’s difficult to describe what my point is… Basically it’s been harder to readjust this time. On the surface everything seems normal, but my mind wanders. Soon I’ll be back into the typical life that I used to have. Traveling will be a memory and it won’t come into my thinking all the time. I can’t tell if that’s a good or bad thing.

Leaving Africa, Berlin, Amsterdam

On this trip I didn't plan to get a motorcycle or plan where to go based on the seasons. Everything worked out well but next time I do a motorcycle trip I'll plan more. I'd like to mention a few things I learned and things I'd do different.

I traveled through the rainy season, which turned out to be quite annoying. Getting up everyday in the rain then packing up wet gear gets old quick. It is worth it to look into the weather before a trip like this.

I would have liked to travel further north while there. I didn't because I had made a promise to give my bike to a friend in Durban. This changed my entire trip. I don't regret doing it because I saw some amazing sites on the way back down from Malawi, but next time I'll figure out a better plan. I could have easily sold it in South Africa, but then again I wouldn't have gone back to South Africa if I hadn't promised to bring it back. Chances are I would have abandoned the bike somewhere in Northern Africa. I guess it's better to give the bike to a friend than let some random stranger have it. My point is that I would have liked to see Tanzania, Kenya, Ethiopia and more.

Another issue was my level of preparedness. I should have kept more spare parts, better spanners, more chain lube, better rain gear, a quality tent, a closed face helmet and had the bike set up in a more efficient way. The dirt roads caused everything to rattle loose. Also, everything was on the back of the bike, so the weight distribution was not ideal.

Surprisingly everything that I lost or was stolen was from hostels/backpackers. Early in the trip my camera disappeared from my tent. More recently someone took my jerry can from outside my tent. This was the only thing that I know for sure was taken and not misplaced. It was full of petrol and my tent was the only one left at the site. Someone took it knowing that I hadn't left yet. These are all minor things but I want to emphasize that the most dishonest people aren't always the ones you're nervous about, but the ones you don't even think of.

There was a big difference between riding through Africa alone vs with a friend. I enjoyed being alone but it's a bit unnerving at times. Riding down a dirt road in the middle of nowhere alone isn't the same as riding with a friend. I liked riding with Rob even though we are two very different people. I will admit that when we split I missed seeing him and having  a friend to talk to.

Overall the trip went really smooth. There were some close calls but nothing too bad happen. The sketchiest things were a minibus driver driving drunk in mountains of Lesotho, almost getting mugged in Durban, getting a glass bottle thrown at me while riding, people pretending to throw things at me, my regulator filled with water while 30 meters underwater scuba diving, the mob in Malawi, and a few times cars drove on my side of the road and forced me off. Looking back I could have gotten hurt easily, but it was worth it. Before starting the bike trip a guy in SA told me if I took the wrong road in Mozambique locals would "kill me, take my wallet, and torch the bike." Warnings like that stayed in the back of my mind throughout the journey. I found that most of the time people were telling me what to do even when they had no personal experience in the matter. People tend to give advice and instill doubt but most of them are just telling you things they've heard. I listen to their advice then make my own decisions. Sure, traveling can be dangerous but people die everyday doing things they think are safe. If you have a good head on your shoulders and make educated decisions most places aren't as dangerous as people make them sound.

On a different note, I flew to Europe a few days ago. I started in Berlin then went to Amsterdam. A friend from work is traveling out here so I hung out with him and his buddies. I also met up with my German friend that I rented a car with in Namibia. So far it's been pretty cool but I already miss Africa and the bike. It's tough to explain why I miss it. I think that Africa has the ability to change a person. Seems like you'll either love it or not care for it much. I love it. A Canadian guy told me while I was in Botswana that "you can never go home." Meaning that travel can change a person and they'll never be the same. They don't see their home the same because their perception changes. Sometimes I wish I'd never started traveling because I wouldn't have this longing to see and do more. It's also difficult to relate to people sometimes. Friends talk about things that happened back home but I can't use my stories to relate. My life is different than most and I find it increasingly difficult to go back to the states and be the person that people knew and expect me to be.

Berlin was a good time. We did a city tour that was helpful understanding the history. After a few days we caught the train to Amsterdam. I bought the train ticket at the station for 120 Euros. I should have booked ahead because it could have been much cheaper. We stayed with a friend of a friend in The Hague outside Amsterdam for a few days. We went to the Escher Museum. It was really cool. We also went to Kings Day in Amsterdam. It was basically a big party because everyone had off. I split from my friends because they went to Paris. I stayed in the city for another night and went to the Bansky/Warhol museum. It was nice to see but not as interesting as Escher. I just got into London today. I took a night bus for 35 Euros. I thought it was a good idea and would save me a night's accommodation. It turned out being pretty tiring. I had to get off the bus a few times to deal with customs, which we didn't deal with from Germany to the Netherlands. Also on the ferry I had to get off the bus and wait in a different area. All this means I didn't get much sleep.

Today I plan on meeting up with Rob in the afternoon. I'm staying in Paddington, which I know nothing about. It's sunny and the weather is nice so I look forward to exploring the city.

Wild Coast South Africa

After Oudtshoorn I stayed in Wilderness for a night. It was a pretty beach town with some hiking and a big tree.

Then I went to Knysna for a night. I got to play golf and checked out Mitchell's Brewery. On the way out I drove through Natures Valley, which was a nice ride through the mountains. I did a bungy jump while heading towards the next stop as well. It was 216 meters off a bridge. I've done one before but this one was quite a bit higher. It was definitely worth 890 Rand (about 61 USD).

I headed to Jefferys Bay next. It is a surfer town famous for a shark attach at a big surfing event last year. I tried sand boarding again, but it wasn't nearly as big or good as the time I did it in Namibia. I bummed around J Bay for a few days before heading off.

Next stop was Hogsback. It's a little mountain town inland from the coast. I spent a few days hiking and checking out the area. When I left it was raining, but I still decided to take the back dirt road out. Probably not a great idea. The ride went smooth but it was slippery and some of the road was washed out. The route I took while leaving was about 370 km, but it took me most of the day to get to Coffee Bay because it rained nearly the entire time.

I spent 6 nights hanging out in Coffee Bay. There's a beautiful hike along the coast line to Hole in the Wall. I spent a lot of time on the beach and doing day motorcycle trips along the back roads. At some point I bent my rear rim pretty significantly. I deflated the tire and used a hammer and wood to try and get it back to the correct shape. I got it fixed pretty well but took it to a local guy to check it out. He said there was nothing more to do because we could crack the rim if we kept working on it. The chain also came off while I was in the middle of nowhere. I tightened it but it came off again yesterday. Coffee Bay was a great stop and I met some cool people. Six nights flew by.

After Coffee Bay I spent a night in Port St Johns. I stayed at a strange Backpackers. The guy camping next to me was talking to his two cats for most of the night. I didn't get much sleep and left early the next morning.

Now I'm in Umzumbe. It's about 100 km south of Durban. I plan to stay here a few nights. It's a nice Backpackers that seems like a jungle by the beach.

Over the last couple months I've done a lot more dirt roads than I had early in the trip. Now I'm taking it easy because of the bent rim. Next time I will use a bigger motorcycle and be more prepared.  This trip has gone by quick and with a week left in Africa I know that I didn't get enough. Using a motorcycle changed the whole dynamic of the trip. It gave me freedom and a hobby. I'm a little bummed that I have to give the bike away soon, but it wouldn't be worth it to ship it home anyway. It'd probably cost more than the bike is worth plus I gave my word. Yesterday I passed 15,000 km so I feel that I've gotten pretty good use out of it. Still, the bike has become like my home. It's strange to say but I've depended on it so much that I've become attached to it. I've unpacked and repacked it so many times that its become a habit. It's been an amazing trip so far. 

Garden Route South Africa

My bike got fixed and it was $50 less than I was quoted, which was a nice surprise. I went south after that to Fish River Canyon. I wasn't able to hike there because it's the wrong time of year. It was beautiful none the less. After that I continued into South Africa. People told me I'd have trouble getting back in, but they were wrong. I was given another 3 months in the country. Best I can figure it's because it's a different calendar year.

I drove from Windhoek to Cape Town in 4 days, about 1,800 km with the detour to the canyon. There wasn't much to see on the west coast of SA so I figured it was better to just cruise. I stayed in Cape Town for a little less than a week. It's a very modern city. I met up with a couple South African friends that I'd met in Mozambique. One of them worked for a boating company and invited me out to go crawfishing. I was pretty surprised when I saw the boat. It was a yacht. One of the nicest boats I've been on. It's was great seeing the city from the ocean.

I left Cape Town a couple days ago. Last night I stayed in Mossel Bay. It was packed with people because of Easter. Luckily I have a tent and was able to find an open spot.

Today I'm in Oudtshoorn. This town is also full because there's some sort of fair/festival going on. Again I am grateful to have a tent because everything is sold out. I went into a cave today and did an adventure walking tour. I lucked out because there was one spot left and the last tour started less than five minutes after I got there. It was pretty neat and I'm glad I did the adventure one because the other tours didn't look that interesting. Tomorrow I will head back towards the coast and continue along the garden route.

I booked my flight out from Durban in a little over three weeks. Then I will head to Berlin for a week and London for a few days. It was cheaper to book a ticket to Europe then go to the states, compared to getting a flight from SA directly home. Not sure why.

There's still a lot of beautiful things to see en route to Durban, but this trip is starting to wrap up.

Windhoek Namibia

From Maun I traveled to Ghanzi and spent a night at a campsite in the bush. The roads were really sandy because it's on the outskirts of the Kalahari desert. I was overtired from the night before and went down on the bike in the sand. It wasn't bad, but pretty frustrating. There wasn't much for me to do in the area so I continued after just one night.

The next day I crossed the border into Namibia. It was a very easy crossing. There was no one hassling me to change money, or for that matter pestering me at all. I spent the night in Gobabis. When I got there it was raining so I got a room for about $15 at a rest house. It was a great decision because it poured on and off all night.

Then I headed for Windhoek. My bike was still making rattling sounds so I had it checked out at the Honda dealership. Turns out the chain was worn so I had to get a new chain and sprockets (about $200 USD). I figured this was the case. It's difficult to find proper chain lube where I've been, Rob and I ran out months ago. I'm still annoyed that the shop in Maun didn't fix the problem or even acknowledge that the chain needed replacing. I don't think they knew what they were doing. The Honda dealership told me it would take 5 days to get the parts from South Africa.

Conveniently I met up with a German I'd met in Maun and we decided to rent a car for 6 days to check out northern Namibia. First we went to Swakopmund on the coast. I tried sand boarding for the first time and had a blast. Next stop was Mt. Brandberg National Reserve where we saw cave paintings that were between 2,000 and 5,000 years old. Then we headed to Etosha National Park. They don't allow motorcycles in the park so I couldn't have gone through there on my own. The park was nice but it's too wet so animals were difficult to spot. Usually they all meet at watering holes, which makes spotting them easy. The highlights we saw were a black rhino and a white rhino.

The parts for my bike came in yesterday so it should be ready this afternoon. It was nice renting a car for a bit of relaxing. It felt like going on vacation with someone I didn't know, with a bit of a language barrier. We were silent a lot of the time in the car, which was nice because we didn't feel forced to talk. Namibia is a former German colony so there are a ton of Germans here. Traveling with a German allowed me to tune out most of the talking and let him be the social one. It sounds strange but I enjoy being able to avoid conversation in every social situation. In Namibia I've been sitting silently quite often unless they decided to stop speaking German for a few minutes and include me. I don't mind.

Yesterday I paid my first real bribe in Africa. I got caught speeding 137.5 km/h in a 120 zone. The officer said I could either drive about 90 km back and pay 1,780 Namibia dollars ($110 USD) or I could pay what I had in my wallet, but couldn't get a receipt. I ended up placing 500 Namibia dollars ($31 USD) next to the officer. I don't like bribing but we wanted to get to Windhoek before dark and it made things a lot easier. Immediately after paying I hit a bird the size of a football while going 120 km/hr. Luckily it didn't damage the car, but I was ready for a beer as soon as we got back.

Namibia is a beautiful country. It's also easy to travel with the exception that it's so rural. There isn't much public transportation so we were picking up hitchhikers all the way. I'd recommend anyone to come here, but during the high season. Etosha would have been much better if there were more animals around. At the campsites they even have seating and lights around the waterholes for night viewing. Unfortunately we didn't see any animals while we were at these spots.

Tomorrow I plan on heading south, assuming my bike is ready. I may hike in Fish River Canyon for a few days, but depends on the weather. It's been rainy the last few days. After that I'll head towards Cape Town, then up the east coast.

A couple months ago I said that Mt. Mulanje was the third highest peak in Africa. That is not true. It's worth checking facts occasionally instead of listening to everything the locals tell you. It's not a big deal but I wanted to make a note about it. It's not even in the top ten highest peaks in Africa, so maybe I misunderstood what the guide said.

Maun Botswana

After Livingstone I crossed the boarder into Botswana. There is a river dividing the two countries so I had to cross using a ferry.

My first stop in Botswana was Kasane near Chobe National Park. I camped for a few nights and met up with my bicycle friend from South Africa. I did a morning safari into the park. It was nice but its the off season so we didn't see too many animals. We saw one elephant, giraffes, hippos, water buffalo, warthogs, impalas, and birds. Later I did a boat ride. Which was ok but I think I was on a boat full of German birdwatchers so they spent a lot of time staring at birds while I had cocktails.

Next I headed south towards Nata, about 300 kms, making my way to the Okavango Delta. On the road from Kasane to Nata I counted 20 elephants and 4 giraffes. Its crazy being close to such big animals when Im on a little 125. I kept my distance and had a great ride.

After a night in Nata I did another 300 kms to Maun on the delta. My bike was making some strange noises so I had it serviced for the first time in 9200 kms. Ive been giving it oil changes every few thousand kms but thats all Ive done so far.

A couple days ago I did a helicopter ride over the delta. It was 3 times the amount of a scenic plane ride, but well worth it. It didnt have doors and we were able to get low and circle around the herds. The delta is pretty dry at the moment but we saw a lot of animals. The highlight for me was seeing a couple big herds of elephants.

I planned on leaving Maun this morning but its raining so Ill probably wait another day. Its been raining a lot the last few weeks. I don't mind riding in the rain a little bit but it gets old. Most mornings it takes a couple hours to get my stuff dry enough to pack. Also, my tent is in rough shape. I bought it in South Africa and its been through some heavy storms and its starting to show. Most of the poles are duct taped and theres a big hole in the screen. I wanted to buy another one but haven't been able to find a quality one in Botswana.

Im going to head towards Namibia and drier weather. Its about 800 kms to Windhoek. From there Ill spend some time in the desert and hopefully check out the west coast.

Lusaka

After Lilongwe I spent a night in Chipata, which is about 20 kms over the boarder. I ran into a friend I had met in Malawi at the campground I stayed at. He had bicycled up from Cape Town. Ive run into quite a few bicyclers and one day I think Ill give it a try. Seems like an entirely different experience.

From Chipata I went to the capital Lusaka. I did 605 kms in one day. Its took me 9 or 10 hours and is the most Ive done yet. The ride was beautiful. The roads are pretty good in Zambia compared with a lot of Malawi and Mozambique. The last 2 hours of the ride it rained. By the time I got to Lusaka everything I had was soaked.

I met up with a couple friends and the next day we went to Livingstone and Victoria Falls. It was great. We went to Angels Pool (Devils Pool was closed). To get to Angels Pool you need to wade through the Zambezi above the falls. Its risky because if you mess up you'll go over the falls. We had a guide, for about $13 each, which was definitely necessary. The tour takes you to a nice overlook and then a cliff jump. We jumped from about 5 meters into a pool that goes over the falls. It was a bit intimidating but the current wasn't as strong as it looked.

I left my bike in Lusaka when I went to Livingstone so after a few days I came back to pick it up. One of the guys I was with wanted to buy a motorcycle so Ive been here for a few days trying to sort that out. In the end he decided not to buy one. Im actually pretty happy with his decision. I don't mind riding alone for a little while. Tomorrow I plan on heading back to Livingstone. Its unfortunate to backtrack, but I need to go through there to get to my next destination. I plan on going through the Caprivi Strip, if motorcycles are allowed, and then into Botswana. I don't have any solid plans but Im ready to hit the road again. Also, I plan on riding back to Durban but Ive heard the visa may be an issue. People have told me they wont let you in if you haven't returned to your port of entry after the original 3 months has passed. Im not sure how it'll work out but I have to try. Im excited for the next couple weeks because I think there will be a lot of big animals to see. I haven't seen any lions, giraffes, or elephants yet but I should soon. 

Lilongwe

After Cape MaClear we stopped in Senga Bay for a couple nights. It was a nice fishing village. We did an island trip but didn't stay too long.

Next was Nkhata Bay. I stayed for about a week. Its on Lake Malawi and there was plenty to do. Our accommodation had paddle boards, kayaks, and canoes. I spent about $30 a day for accommodation, food and drinks. Seems a little expensive for Africa but not too bad for an all inclusive holiday. We met up with several friends that we had known along the way, including one guy we hadn't seen since Durban. We also took a trip to Likoma island for a couple nights.

While in Nkhata Bay a friend stopped in that I hadn't seen since Mozambique. He said he was staying with a family north of Mzuzu and asked if I wanted to come with him. I spent a couple nights staying with him and a local family in their village. While there we drove up to Nyika National Park. I was told their vehicle was a 4x4 but turns out it was 2 wheel drive. We had to push it out of the mud several times and one time crashed into a ditch. No one got hurt and the car was fine. At the park we saw a lot of Zebras and animals that looked like antelopes. The drive there was all dirt roads and it took us all day to get there and back even though it wasn't that far in kilometers.

Yesterday I drove 400+ kilometers to get to Lilongwe. I left around 430am and it rained on and off all day. I wont leave that early again. It was dark and raining for the first hour. It made for a pretty difficult morning considering I didn't have a map or really know my way around. It was a pretty ride when it wasn't raining.

Rob and I split up after I left Nkhata Bay. Hes heading north towards Tanzania and I'm heading back to South Africa. In total we drove over 6400 kilometers together through 4 countries. We were similar in ways but also very different. I think we made a pretty good team all together. It is exciting to be on my own. It feels like a whole new challenge and a new trip all together.

Malawi has been an amazing country. Over the last month Ive learned a lot about the people and the problems they're facing. For one, there are people everywhere on the roads. You think you're in the middle of nowhere but still there are people walking every 50 yards. Also, many people live in very rural areas. When we drove to Nyika Park we drove for hours on a dirt road that was really rough. Still there were people everywhere. Its apparent that if there were any medical emergencies it would take help hours to get there and back to a hospital. A medical student I met here told me there are 250 doctors in the entire country. The people are also very religious. There are a lot of Christians and mosques seem to be popping up everywhere. The coffin industry seems to be big here as well. Every third village has a coffin shop. The people watch a lot of religious television including the prophet Major 1. While staying with the family they watched him the majority of the time. Reading the newspapers shows even more issues. Such as corruption, women's rights, witch hunts, and more. Ive seen children working everywhere. They are either selling things like charcoal, chickens, or vegetables on the side of the road or working in the fields. Its conflicting, I don't want to buy from kids because I think they should be in school but they are going to be working either way. The major crops look like corn and tobacco. People eat a lot of Nsima which is a corn product similar to Pap in South Africa.

I will head to Zambia tomorrow or the next day. I need to find a map today. Most people here have cell phones with data. Many locals even use WhatsApp. I don't have a phone, it makes things more difficult but its nice to get away. On the other hand I do feel disconnected from issues back home. It is a tough balance to find. At any given hostel you'll see nearly everyone on their cell phones or laptops. You could travel all over the world and never really leave westerners, especially if you're driving your own car. At least on a motorcycle I'm forced to communicate with locals and take breaks every 100 kms. Any form of travel would bring a different experience. Local transport is probably the most cultural but it is tough here. I'm happy with my decision to motorcycle. Anyways, I'm ranting now so I'm done. Next stop Zambia.

Cape Maclear Malawi

Yesterday I went wakesurfing and waterskiing on Lake Malawi. It was great and being on the lake almost let me forget that Im missing ski season. I have conflicting feelings about doing these expensive/touristy things in Africa. There are no locals waterskiing, these people can barely afford to eat. Things like climbing mountains and hanging out by the beach are fun for a bit but it makes me feel guilty.

A few days ago, in Zomba, I visited a halfway house for street boys. Im skeptical about these kind of organizations because of an experience I had a few years ago in Cambodia. The Malawian people in charge of this one had good ideas but its difficult to say how much they are accomplishing. They want to be financially self sufficient which seems like a reasonable goal. While visiting the center I only saw 3 beds. They told me 7 boys were living there. One of the beds was for an employee at night and there was a locked room that may have had more beds. There were 5 employees when I visited but unfortunately the boys were at school. They said they have the ability to hold up to 16 kids but it comes in waves. The people seemed nice and open to suggestions. They didnt ask for any money. I gave them a harmonica and a book on how to play.

I hiked Mt. Mulange last week. It was amazing. We hiked for 3 days and summited the 3rd highest peak in Africa. The mountain is a huge plateau with several peaks. I could have easily spent a few more days up there.

On the way from Zomba to Cape Maclear we stopped on the side of the road for a break. We wanted to find shade so we looked for a spot to park under a tree. There was a little girl and Rob pulled up too close and scared her. She ran towards her village. Rob got his bike stuck trying to get under the tree. Me and another guy helped push him out. We left the bikes on the road and went to relax under the tree. A few minutes later I noticed a bunch of people congregating by a bridge. They started walking our way. I told Rob we should go and we started to pack up our stuff. By the time the crowd reached us there was about 30 of them. The little girl that ran away earlier thought that Rob was trying to kidnap her. They were mostly women and children but at least 2 men were with them and one had a machete. We tried to explain but couldnt get our point across. I said we were leaving and went towards the bikes. I put on my gear and got on as quick as possible. Someone threw a rock that landed near my foot. I looked up and saw at least one other kid with a rock. The guy with the machete started scraping it on the road. I think that was to mark a line we couldnt pass. As we rode off they screamed and ran after us. I understand why the incident happened and I dont blame the community. A lot of Malawian kids are kidnapped and sent to Mozambique Ive heard. Its crazy how things can escalate from a misunderstanding.

Today we are heading north from Cape Maclear.

Blantyre Malawi

We got into Malawi 2 days ago. Surprisingly the boarder crossing was the biggest pain yet. As soon as we pulled up on the Mozembique side people were hassling us and trying to get us to convert money. Once we got out of Mozambique the area between boarders there were more guys all around us. They were more friendly, but unfortunately we already changed our money. One of the guys gave us forms and helped us through the process. I knew he was going to ask for money but it was worth a couple bucks to save time and stress. I ended up having to buy third party insurance again for 25,000 Kwacha (1USD = 670 Kwacha), the visa was $75, and I had to buy a temporary import for the motorcycle at 10,000 Kwacha. It was quite an expensive crossing. We had to use the atm at the boarder because we ran out of cash and I didnt want to use all my dollars.

Its mountainous and cooler here so far. The lake is supposed to be amazing and I imagine the entire country will be a nice scenic motorcycle ride.

After Vilankulo we spent  two nights in Inhassaro then had a 430 km ride to Chimoio. We spent a couple nights there. It wasn't touristy and showed the more typical side of Mozambique cities. Next we went to Catandica. We saw a sign for bush camping and followed it. The sign was in English so we knew it would lead somewhere. After about 20 km on a dirt road in the bush we found a farm that had camping. It was owned by a Swiss family. Turned out being a great place to camp in the woods and they even had a pool. The family had built the farm from scratch over the last 8 years. Next we headed to Tete. It was another city with very few tourists. We camped on the Zambeze river.

Our next stop is going to be near Mount Malanje I think. We hope to hike it and then continue up the country. I believe Malawi will be as far north as I get. Im going to bring the bike back to Durban so Rob and I will probably be parting ways soon. I will probably head through Zambia towards Victoria Falls. I heard its pretty dry now, but it gives me a target and it'll be in the general direction I want to head. Im planning on being back in the states by mid June. If I want a chance to check out Cape Town and the rest of SA Ill have to start making my way back in a month or so. There still a lot of Southern Africa to see so I think central and northern Africa will have to wait.

Vilankulos Mozambique

I finished my scuba course a few days ago. The sea was rough the first few days, but after New Years it calmed down. The diving was nice but I missed out on the Manta Rays and Whale Sharks. I saw a small eyed sting ray, an octopus, a moray eel, and a ton of fish. We spent New Years in Tofo. The beach transformed into an area packed with local tourists celebrating the holiday. There was music all the time and the beach got trashed. After New Years it chilled out and the beach got cleaned up.

We got to Vilankulos a couple days ago. On the way up we got stopped by the police. They only asked a couple questions and let us go without showing any papers. Yesterday we went on a snorkeling trip to Two Mile Reef off the coast of Bazaruto. It was a nice spot and shallow enough to swim down and check stuff out.

Today we are heading north. We are going to stop at a town 50 km north on highway 1. Then we have a 415 km stretch that well have to do in one day. Our visas run out January 22 so we are planning on being in Malawi by then.