Kolkata

On the train ride here we got general unreserved tickets. That means we had to fight our way in for a seat on an overbooked train. It took 12 hours and was pretty interesting. There were people sleeping on the floor and a fight broke out.

A couple of days ago I went to a cricket game with a few guys. It was a big stadium and a good time. During 1/2 time I went to get a couple of sodas and had to fight my way to the front of the "line". Getting out was even harder because everyone was trying to move forward. One of the guys that went with me got his camera stolen in the chaos. That was one of the most intense crowds Ive seen so far.

My plan was to head to Delhi yesterday, but I met up with some friends from the trek so I stayed here a bit longer. The city is really hot but Im starting to like it more everyday. Im going to head out within the next few days. My plan is to go to Khajuraho then north of Delhi. Hopefully I will get back into the mountains and out of the heat for a bit.

Its difficult to decide what to do because I have to be in Delhi on May 8th at the latest. Ive been taking night trains mostly which saves me a night's accommodation and it doesnt take up a day. Getting to Khajuraho is probably going to take me at least a day because there is no direct route. My plans might change but now I have a tentative schedule.

Finished the trek and heading to Kolkata

The trek went really well. The first day it was rainy and there was practically no view. On the second day it snowed then we saw the mountains for sunset. The 3rd day we woke up at 4 am to see the sun rise. It was clear and we were able to see the 3rd highest peak in the world. The views made the trek really incredible. Three of us decided to trek back to Yuksom (the town we started in) after breakfast. We hiked about 26 km yesterday so that we could catch a jeep this morning to get to the railroad station a day earlier. Now Im heading to Kolkata. Its going to be a big hot city. Numerous people told me to go there so hopefully its nice.

Something random: there is a huge spider on my backpack right now. It freaked me out a little, so Im going to have to take care of that now.

Sikkim

It took us over 24 hours to get from Varanasi to Darjeeling using two trains then a jeep ride through the mountains. We spent a couple days there checking out the cable cars and tea plantations. After that we took two jeeps to get to Sikkim. It was through mountain passes with no guard rails so it made me a little nervous but it was beautiful. I had to get a permit to come to this part of India, but it was free. Tomorrow 6 of us are doing a 4 day trek in the Himalayas. We are on the west side of Sikkim near the boarder of Nepal. We have a yak and a guide so it shouldn't be too difficult. I think the highest point will be below 5000 meters, so the altitude may cause some shortness of breath.

Leaving Varanasi

Im catching a couple trains to Darjeeling this afternoon. Its a Himalayan city to the north. I dont know that much about it but it looks pretty.

Varanasi has been really interesting. I have never been to a city anything like it. There is a crematory on the river where they burn bodies 24 hours a day. It made me uncomfortable to watch the cremations, but its normal in their lifestyle. I took a boat ride on the river and the guide said they burn 150 - 200 bodies a day. There are a few cases where the bodies don't get burned and they just sink them in the river (ie. pregnant women or children under 12). That means you can see bodies and body parts floating in the river. I also saw them put a cow in the middle and watched it float down. People still use the river for bathing and washing their clothes. Its pretty amazing that it doesnt make them sick. They have been doing it their entire life so I guess their immune system is different.

I do like the city though. There is something about it that is alluring. From what I understand nobody knows how old it is. Some people have told me that its the oldest city in the world. I asked the boat guide and he said he honestly didnt know.

If I had more time in India I would stay here longer. I know there is a lot more to see.

Varanasi

I stayed in Delhi for a couple of days. I liked it quite a bit. The metro was really clean and nice. There is a backpacker ghetto that is similar to Khoa San road in Bangkok. Its not peaceful or nice, but its an easy place to meet other travelers. Its also right next to the train station.

There was a really nice European style area called Hauz Khas Village. It was a break from some of the chaos in the city.

Traveling alone didn't last long. I met someone the first night in Delhi and hung out with him a few days. Then on the way to the metro I met another guy and caught a train with him to Varanasi (about 12 hrs away). We got here a couple hours ago. Its full of really narrow streets and on the Ganges. I havent had time to look around the city yet, but Im about to head out and do that.

I think that traveling alone will have to wait for a little bit longer. Its nice to travel with people because everything is cheaper and you have someone to keep an eye on your stuff. Its also interesting to learn how other people travel. Most of the people I travel with live in countries that I have never even visited. I learn a lot about their countries along with learning about what others think about the US. Its really amazing how easy it is to meet people when you travel. It usually takes almost no effort and within a couple days you really get to know the person.

Leaving the South

Im flying to Delhi today. I probably should have just taken a train, but it would have taken a few days.

Yesterday was the first day I was alone this trip. I had been traveling with a German friend for a couple weeks and before that some other girls. It is nice to be alone for now and have time to think. Im staying at a hostel in Delhi, so I probably wont be alone for long.

I dont really have a plan for the North. Going to the Taj Mahal at some point and I would like to do a trek.

It has taken me this long to get back into the traveling mode. Now I feel like Im ready to get into it. Its nice that I am flying north, so I will have a new start.

Kochi

After Mysore we went to Ooty to see the hill stations. It was really pretty taking a train through the mountains.

Now Im in Kochi which is in Kerala. Its on the southern tip of India. Im going to stay here for a few days. There are backwater cruises where you float down a river. After that Im going to catch a flight to Delhi to see the north. It would take 3 days by train, so Im not doing that this time.

This trip has been different then I expected. India is way too big to see in a couple months. Im trying to hit all the main points, but it would probably be better to see one region. Moving from place to place quickly doesnt give me time to really see and learn about the culture. It seems like the only way to really get to know a place is to live there. Its frustrating moving all the time. Thats what happens when you travel with a deadline. Either way its still nice and I have more time then a lot of people.