Back in the US

London was a good time. I hung out with Rob and checked out where he grew up in Windsor. He also showed me around London and introduced me to some of his friends. It was interesting to see where a good friend that I met traveling grew up. Most of the time I meet people abroad and we get along well, but never get to see where each other came from. Seeing Rob again was immediately a comfortable feeling where neither of us had to work to make conversation happen. It’s a strange experience going from not knowing a person to spending everyday with them for three months.

I’ve been back in the US for a little over a month. Usually I don’t do blog posts while at home but I feel it’s a good idea to describe the feeling of being home from this trip in particular. I just got back into Denver and I find myself slipping into my old routines and habits. This scares me because there was a reason I left. I was in a rut and needed change. I’m really going to try hard to be better than I was and to remember the things I learned traveling. Sometimes I get distracted by little issues in life and forget how lucky I am to have the life I do. As Americans, I think we sometimes take what we have for granted. I’ve been very fortunate to have a great family, an education, and to live in a country that provides opportunities. So many people I’ve seen don’t know where their next meal will come from, don’t have transportation, and don’t have access to medical care. I’m not saying its perfect here and there is certainly a great deal of inequality, but most of us aren’t living in rural huts praying for enough rain that we’ll have corn to eat.

I find myself daydreaming and spacey lately. I’ll be having a good time then its like I get slapped in the face and remember how unfair the world is. There are so many people starving, yet I just play dumb and go buy another $8 beer at the bar. Most of us just ignore what’s going on in different parts of the world because for unknown reasons we feel entitled to what we have. Recently two Africans I met have contacted me asking for help with money. I’m not sure what I’ll do. Giving people money isn’t a long-term solution. Yet I do feel guilty because I’m still spending money on things I don’t need.

Another big issue I’ve been dealing with is getting used to having a cell phone. During my trip I never had a phone. I had an iPad, but it didn’t have a data plan, so I needed wifi to connect. Now I’m connected nearly everywhere I go.  Sometimes I’ll sit at a table with friends and many of them just stare at their phone.  I can’t say I’m immune though. If I’m waiting or bored I catch myself staring at my phone. Smart phones have the potential to make people detached from reality. Whenever we feel socially awkward we just stare at the screen. Sometimes its nice to feel out of place and awkward. That way we learn how to deal with that type of situation and aren’t forced to pretend we’re so important that we need to check our phones constantly.

Traveling has shown me some things I dislike about the American culture. For one it’s not whether what we have works, but often we want our things to be nicer than the person next door. There is a competition to outdo each other materialistically. This leads to a great deal of waste and an ugly consumerist culture. Another thing that is apparent while traveling is how opinionated and ignorant many Americans can be. It’s usually easy to pick out the Americans in a room full of international travelers. Typically they’re the loudest people in the room, who seem to just be talking to hear their own voice. While traveling I put an effort into keeping up with both American and international news. I also try to keep my tone down and be open to changing my opinion in discussions. The majority of Americans I met abroad aren’t very well informed, yet they will argue their point and use volume to compensate for their lack of knowledge. I try my best to be the atypical American while traveling.

Some of my points about Americans may be considered offensive, but this is what I’ve seen from experience. My views are constantly changing and every time I’m proven wrong I learn something new. I’d be more than happy to discuss these things with people that disagree. It’s not a bad thing to be proven wrong.

It’s difficult to describe what my point is… Basically it’s been harder to readjust this time. On the surface everything seems normal, but my mind wanders. Soon I’ll be back into the typical life that I used to have. Traveling will be a memory and it won’t come into my thinking all the time. I can’t tell if that’s a good or bad thing.

Leaving Africa, Berlin, Amsterdam

On this trip I didn't plan to get a motorcycle or plan where to go based on the seasons. Everything worked out well but next time I do a motorcycle trip I'll plan more. I'd like to mention a few things I learned and things I'd do different.

I traveled through the rainy season, which turned out to be quite annoying. Getting up everyday in the rain then packing up wet gear gets old quick. It is worth it to look into the weather before a trip like this.

I would have liked to travel further north while there. I didn't because I had made a promise to give my bike to a friend in Durban. This changed my entire trip. I don't regret doing it because I saw some amazing sites on the way back down from Malawi, but next time I'll figure out a better plan. I could have easily sold it in South Africa, but then again I wouldn't have gone back to South Africa if I hadn't promised to bring it back. Chances are I would have abandoned the bike somewhere in Northern Africa. I guess it's better to give the bike to a friend than let some random stranger have it. My point is that I would have liked to see Tanzania, Kenya, Ethiopia and more.

Another issue was my level of preparedness. I should have kept more spare parts, better spanners, more chain lube, better rain gear, a quality tent, a closed face helmet and had the bike set up in a more efficient way. The dirt roads caused everything to rattle loose. Also, everything was on the back of the bike, so the weight distribution was not ideal.

Surprisingly everything that I lost or was stolen was from hostels/backpackers. Early in the trip my camera disappeared from my tent. More recently someone took my jerry can from outside my tent. This was the only thing that I know for sure was taken and not misplaced. It was full of petrol and my tent was the only one left at the site. Someone took it knowing that I hadn't left yet. These are all minor things but I want to emphasize that the most dishonest people aren't always the ones you're nervous about, but the ones you don't even think of.

There was a big difference between riding through Africa alone vs with a friend. I enjoyed being alone but it's a bit unnerving at times. Riding down a dirt road in the middle of nowhere alone isn't the same as riding with a friend. I liked riding with Rob even though we are two very different people. I will admit that when we split I missed seeing him and having  a friend to talk to.

Overall the trip went really smooth. There were some close calls but nothing too bad happen. The sketchiest things were a minibus driver driving drunk in mountains of Lesotho, almost getting mugged in Durban, getting a glass bottle thrown at me while riding, people pretending to throw things at me, my regulator filled with water while 30 meters underwater scuba diving, the mob in Malawi, and a few times cars drove on my side of the road and forced me off. Looking back I could have gotten hurt easily, but it was worth it. Before starting the bike trip a guy in SA told me if I took the wrong road in Mozambique locals would "kill me, take my wallet, and torch the bike." Warnings like that stayed in the back of my mind throughout the journey. I found that most of the time people were telling me what to do even when they had no personal experience in the matter. People tend to give advice and instill doubt but most of them are just telling you things they've heard. I listen to their advice then make my own decisions. Sure, traveling can be dangerous but people die everyday doing things they think are safe. If you have a good head on your shoulders and make educated decisions most places aren't as dangerous as people make them sound.

On a different note, I flew to Europe a few days ago. I started in Berlin then went to Amsterdam. A friend from work is traveling out here so I hung out with him and his buddies. I also met up with my German friend that I rented a car with in Namibia. So far it's been pretty cool but I already miss Africa and the bike. It's tough to explain why I miss it. I think that Africa has the ability to change a person. Seems like you'll either love it or not care for it much. I love it. A Canadian guy told me while I was in Botswana that "you can never go home." Meaning that travel can change a person and they'll never be the same. They don't see their home the same because their perception changes. Sometimes I wish I'd never started traveling because I wouldn't have this longing to see and do more. It's also difficult to relate to people sometimes. Friends talk about things that happened back home but I can't use my stories to relate. My life is different than most and I find it increasingly difficult to go back to the states and be the person that people knew and expect me to be.

Berlin was a good time. We did a city tour that was helpful understanding the history. After a few days we caught the train to Amsterdam. I bought the train ticket at the station for 120 Euros. I should have booked ahead because it could have been much cheaper. We stayed with a friend of a friend in The Hague outside Amsterdam for a few days. We went to the Escher Museum. It was really cool. We also went to Kings Day in Amsterdam. It was basically a big party because everyone had off. I split from my friends because they went to Paris. I stayed in the city for another night and went to the Bansky/Warhol museum. It was nice to see but not as interesting as Escher. I just got into London today. I took a night bus for 35 Euros. I thought it was a good idea and would save me a night's accommodation. It turned out being pretty tiring. I had to get off the bus a few times to deal with customs, which we didn't deal with from Germany to the Netherlands. Also on the ferry I had to get off the bus and wait in a different area. All this means I didn't get much sleep.

Today I plan on meeting up with Rob in the afternoon. I'm staying in Paddington, which I know nothing about. It's sunny and the weather is nice so I look forward to exploring the city.

Wild Coast South Africa

After Oudtshoorn I stayed in Wilderness for a night. It was a pretty beach town with some hiking and a big tree.

Then I went to Knysna for a night. I got to play golf and checked out Mitchell's Brewery. On the way out I drove through Natures Valley, which was a nice ride through the mountains. I did a bungy jump while heading towards the next stop as well. It was 216 meters off a bridge. I've done one before but this one was quite a bit higher. It was definitely worth 890 Rand (about 61 USD).

I headed to Jefferys Bay next. It is a surfer town famous for a shark attach at a big surfing event last year. I tried sand boarding again, but it wasn't nearly as big or good as the time I did it in Namibia. I bummed around J Bay for a few days before heading off.

Next stop was Hogsback. It's a little mountain town inland from the coast. I spent a few days hiking and checking out the area. When I left it was raining, but I still decided to take the back dirt road out. Probably not a great idea. The ride went smooth but it was slippery and some of the road was washed out. The route I took while leaving was about 370 km, but it took me most of the day to get to Coffee Bay because it rained nearly the entire time.

I spent 6 nights hanging out in Coffee Bay. There's a beautiful hike along the coast line to Hole in the Wall. I spent a lot of time on the beach and doing day motorcycle trips along the back roads. At some point I bent my rear rim pretty significantly. I deflated the tire and used a hammer and wood to try and get it back to the correct shape. I got it fixed pretty well but took it to a local guy to check it out. He said there was nothing more to do because we could crack the rim if we kept working on it. The chain also came off while I was in the middle of nowhere. I tightened it but it came off again yesterday. Coffee Bay was a great stop and I met some cool people. Six nights flew by.

After Coffee Bay I spent a night in Port St Johns. I stayed at a strange Backpackers. The guy camping next to me was talking to his two cats for most of the night. I didn't get much sleep and left early the next morning.

Now I'm in Umzumbe. It's about 100 km south of Durban. I plan to stay here a few nights. It's a nice Backpackers that seems like a jungle by the beach.

Over the last couple months I've done a lot more dirt roads than I had early in the trip. Now I'm taking it easy because of the bent rim. Next time I will use a bigger motorcycle and be more prepared.  This trip has gone by quick and with a week left in Africa I know that I didn't get enough. Using a motorcycle changed the whole dynamic of the trip. It gave me freedom and a hobby. I'm a little bummed that I have to give the bike away soon, but it wouldn't be worth it to ship it home anyway. It'd probably cost more than the bike is worth plus I gave my word. Yesterday I passed 15,000 km so I feel that I've gotten pretty good use out of it. Still, the bike has become like my home. It's strange to say but I've depended on it so much that I've become attached to it. I've unpacked and repacked it so many times that its become a habit. It's been an amazing trip so far. 

Garden Route South Africa

My bike got fixed and it was $50 less than I was quoted, which was a nice surprise. I went south after that to Fish River Canyon. I wasn't able to hike there because it's the wrong time of year. It was beautiful none the less. After that I continued into South Africa. People told me I'd have trouble getting back in, but they were wrong. I was given another 3 months in the country. Best I can figure it's because it's a different calendar year.

I drove from Windhoek to Cape Town in 4 days, about 1,800 km with the detour to the canyon. There wasn't much to see on the west coast of SA so I figured it was better to just cruise. I stayed in Cape Town for a little less than a week. It's a very modern city. I met up with a couple South African friends that I'd met in Mozambique. One of them worked for a boating company and invited me out to go crawfishing. I was pretty surprised when I saw the boat. It was a yacht. One of the nicest boats I've been on. It's was great seeing the city from the ocean.

I left Cape Town a couple days ago. Last night I stayed in Mossel Bay. It was packed with people because of Easter. Luckily I have a tent and was able to find an open spot.

Today I'm in Oudtshoorn. This town is also full because there's some sort of fair/festival going on. Again I am grateful to have a tent because everything is sold out. I went into a cave today and did an adventure walking tour. I lucked out because there was one spot left and the last tour started less than five minutes after I got there. It was pretty neat and I'm glad I did the adventure one because the other tours didn't look that interesting. Tomorrow I will head back towards the coast and continue along the garden route.

I booked my flight out from Durban in a little over three weeks. Then I will head to Berlin for a week and London for a few days. It was cheaper to book a ticket to Europe then go to the states, compared to getting a flight from SA directly home. Not sure why.

There's still a lot of beautiful things to see en route to Durban, but this trip is starting to wrap up.

Windhoek Namibia

From Maun I traveled to Ghanzi and spent a night at a campsite in the bush. The roads were really sandy because it's on the outskirts of the Kalahari desert. I was overtired from the night before and went down on the bike in the sand. It wasn't bad, but pretty frustrating. There wasn't much for me to do in the area so I continued after just one night.

The next day I crossed the border into Namibia. It was a very easy crossing. There was no one hassling me to change money, or for that matter pestering me at all. I spent the night in Gobabis. When I got there it was raining so I got a room for about $15 at a rest house. It was a great decision because it poured on and off all night.

Then I headed for Windhoek. My bike was still making rattling sounds so I had it checked out at the Honda dealership. Turns out the chain was worn so I had to get a new chain and sprockets (about $200 USD). I figured this was the case. It's difficult to find proper chain lube where I've been, Rob and I ran out months ago. I'm still annoyed that the shop in Maun didn't fix the problem or even acknowledge that the chain needed replacing. I don't think they knew what they were doing. The Honda dealership told me it would take 5 days to get the parts from South Africa.

Conveniently I met up with a German I'd met in Maun and we decided to rent a car for 6 days to check out northern Namibia. First we went to Swakopmund on the coast. I tried sand boarding for the first time and had a blast. Next stop was Mt. Brandberg National Reserve where we saw cave paintings that were between 2,000 and 5,000 years old. Then we headed to Etosha National Park. They don't allow motorcycles in the park so I couldn't have gone through there on my own. The park was nice but it's too wet so animals were difficult to spot. Usually they all meet at watering holes, which makes spotting them easy. The highlights we saw were a black rhino and a white rhino.

The parts for my bike came in yesterday so it should be ready this afternoon. It was nice renting a car for a bit of relaxing. It felt like going on vacation with someone I didn't know, with a bit of a language barrier. We were silent a lot of the time in the car, which was nice because we didn't feel forced to talk. Namibia is a former German colony so there are a ton of Germans here. Traveling with a German allowed me to tune out most of the talking and let him be the social one. It sounds strange but I enjoy being able to avoid conversation in every social situation. In Namibia I've been sitting silently quite often unless they decided to stop speaking German for a few minutes and include me. I don't mind.

Yesterday I paid my first real bribe in Africa. I got caught speeding 137.5 km/h in a 120 zone. The officer said I could either drive about 90 km back and pay 1,780 Namibia dollars ($110 USD) or I could pay what I had in my wallet, but couldn't get a receipt. I ended up placing 500 Namibia dollars ($31 USD) next to the officer. I don't like bribing but we wanted to get to Windhoek before dark and it made things a lot easier. Immediately after paying I hit a bird the size of a football while going 120 km/hr. Luckily it didn't damage the car, but I was ready for a beer as soon as we got back.

Namibia is a beautiful country. It's also easy to travel with the exception that it's so rural. There isn't much public transportation so we were picking up hitchhikers all the way. I'd recommend anyone to come here, but during the high season. Etosha would have been much better if there were more animals around. At the campsites they even have seating and lights around the waterholes for night viewing. Unfortunately we didn't see any animals while we were at these spots.

Tomorrow I plan on heading south, assuming my bike is ready. I may hike in Fish River Canyon for a few days, but depends on the weather. It's been rainy the last few days. After that I'll head towards Cape Town, then up the east coast.

A couple months ago I said that Mt. Mulanje was the third highest peak in Africa. That is not true. It's worth checking facts occasionally instead of listening to everything the locals tell you. It's not a big deal but I wanted to make a note about it. It's not even in the top ten highest peaks in Africa, so maybe I misunderstood what the guide said.

Maun Botswana

After Livingstone I crossed the boarder into Botswana. There is a river dividing the two countries so I had to cross using a ferry.

My first stop in Botswana was Kasane near Chobe National Park. I camped for a few nights and met up with my bicycle friend from South Africa. I did a morning safari into the park. It was nice but its the off season so we didn't see too many animals. We saw one elephant, giraffes, hippos, water buffalo, warthogs, impalas, and birds. Later I did a boat ride. Which was ok but I think I was on a boat full of German birdwatchers so they spent a lot of time staring at birds while I had cocktails.

Next I headed south towards Nata, about 300 kms, making my way to the Okavango Delta. On the road from Kasane to Nata I counted 20 elephants and 4 giraffes. Its crazy being close to such big animals when Im on a little 125. I kept my distance and had a great ride.

After a night in Nata I did another 300 kms to Maun on the delta. My bike was making some strange noises so I had it serviced for the first time in 9200 kms. Ive been giving it oil changes every few thousand kms but thats all Ive done so far.

A couple days ago I did a helicopter ride over the delta. It was 3 times the amount of a scenic plane ride, but well worth it. It didnt have doors and we were able to get low and circle around the herds. The delta is pretty dry at the moment but we saw a lot of animals. The highlight for me was seeing a couple big herds of elephants.

I planned on leaving Maun this morning but its raining so Ill probably wait another day. Its been raining a lot the last few weeks. I don't mind riding in the rain a little bit but it gets old. Most mornings it takes a couple hours to get my stuff dry enough to pack. Also, my tent is in rough shape. I bought it in South Africa and its been through some heavy storms and its starting to show. Most of the poles are duct taped and theres a big hole in the screen. I wanted to buy another one but haven't been able to find a quality one in Botswana.

Im going to head towards Namibia and drier weather. Its about 800 kms to Windhoek. From there Ill spend some time in the desert and hopefully check out the west coast.

Lusaka

After Lilongwe I spent a night in Chipata, which is about 20 kms over the boarder. I ran into a friend I had met in Malawi at the campground I stayed at. He had bicycled up from Cape Town. Ive run into quite a few bicyclers and one day I think Ill give it a try. Seems like an entirely different experience.

From Chipata I went to the capital Lusaka. I did 605 kms in one day. Its took me 9 or 10 hours and is the most Ive done yet. The ride was beautiful. The roads are pretty good in Zambia compared with a lot of Malawi and Mozambique. The last 2 hours of the ride it rained. By the time I got to Lusaka everything I had was soaked.

I met up with a couple friends and the next day we went to Livingstone and Victoria Falls. It was great. We went to Angels Pool (Devils Pool was closed). To get to Angels Pool you need to wade through the Zambezi above the falls. Its risky because if you mess up you'll go over the falls. We had a guide, for about $13 each, which was definitely necessary. The tour takes you to a nice overlook and then a cliff jump. We jumped from about 5 meters into a pool that goes over the falls. It was a bit intimidating but the current wasn't as strong as it looked.

I left my bike in Lusaka when I went to Livingstone so after a few days I came back to pick it up. One of the guys I was with wanted to buy a motorcycle so Ive been here for a few days trying to sort that out. In the end he decided not to buy one. Im actually pretty happy with his decision. I don't mind riding alone for a little while. Tomorrow I plan on heading back to Livingstone. Its unfortunate to backtrack, but I need to go through there to get to my next destination. I plan on going through the Caprivi Strip, if motorcycles are allowed, and then into Botswana. I don't have any solid plans but Im ready to hit the road again. Also, I plan on riding back to Durban but Ive heard the visa may be an issue. People have told me they wont let you in if you haven't returned to your port of entry after the original 3 months has passed. Im not sure how it'll work out but I have to try. Im excited for the next couple weeks because I think there will be a lot of big animals to see. I haven't seen any lions, giraffes, or elephants yet but I should soon.