Saturday, April 30, 2016

Leaving Africa, Berlin, Amsterdam

On this trip I didn't plan to get a motorcycle or plan where to go based on the seasons. Everything worked out well but next time I do a motorcycle trip I'll plan more. I'd like to mention a few things I learned and things I'd do different.

I traveled through the rainy season, which turned out to be quite annoying. Getting up everyday in the rain then packing up wet gear gets old quick. It is worth it to look into the weather before a trip like this.

I would have liked to travel further north while there. I didn't because I had made a promise to give my bike to a friend in Durban. This changed my entire trip. I don't regret doing it because I saw some amazing sites on the way back down from Malawi, but next time I'll figure out a better plan. I could have easily sold it in South Africa, but then again I wouldn't have gone back to South Africa if I hadn't promised to bring it back. Chances are I would have abandoned the bike somewhere in Northern Africa. I guess it's better to give the bike to a friend than let some random stranger have it. My point is that I would have liked to see Tanzania, Kenya, Ethiopia and more.

Another issue was my level of preparedness. I should have kept more spare parts, better spanners, more chain lube, better rain gear, a quality tent, a closed face helmet and had the bike set up in a more efficient way. The dirt roads caused everything to rattle loose. Also, everything was on the back of the bike, so the weight distribution was not ideal.

Surprisingly everything that I lost or was stolen was from hostels/backpackers. Early in the trip my camera disappeared from my tent. More recently someone took my jerry can from outside my tent. This was the only thing that I know for sure was taken and not misplaced. It was full of petrol and my tent was the only one left at the site. Someone took it knowing that I hadn't left yet. These are all minor things but I want to emphasize that the most dishonest people aren't always the ones you're nervous about, but the ones you don't even think of.

There was a big difference between riding through Africa alone vs with a friend. I enjoyed being alone but it's a bit unnerving at times. Riding down a dirt road in the middle of nowhere alone isn't the same as riding with a friend. I liked riding with Rob even though we are two very different people. I will admit that when we split I missed seeing him and having  a friend to talk to.

Overall the trip went really smooth. There were some close calls but nothing too bad happen. The sketchiest things were a minibus driver driving drunk in mountains of Lesotho, almost getting mugged in Durban, getting a glass bottle thrown at me while riding, people pretending to throw things at me, my regulator filled with water while 30 meters underwater scuba diving, the mob in Malawi, and a few times cars drove on my side of the road and forced me off. Looking back I could have gotten hurt easily, but it was worth it. Before starting the bike trip a guy in SA told me if I took the wrong road in Mozambique locals would "kill me, take my wallet, and torch the bike." Warnings like that stayed in the back of my mind throughout the journey. I found that most of the time people were telling me what to do even when they had no personal experience in the matter. People tend to give advice and instill doubt but most of them are just telling you things they've heard. I listen to their advice then make my own decisions. Sure, traveling can be dangerous but people die everyday doing things they think are safe. If you have a good head on your shoulders and make educated decisions most places aren't as dangerous as people make them sound.

On a different note, I flew to Europe a few days ago. I started in Berlin then went to Amsterdam. A friend from work is traveling out here so I hung out with him and his buddies. I also met up with my German friend that I rented a car with in Namibia. So far it's been pretty cool but I already miss Africa and the bike. It's tough to explain why I miss it. I think that Africa has the ability to change a person. Seems like you'll either love it or not care for it much. I love it. A Canadian guy told me while I was in Botswana that "you can never go home." Meaning that travel can change a person and they'll never be the same. They don't see their home the same because their perception changes. Sometimes I wish I'd never started traveling because I wouldn't have this longing to see and do more. It's also difficult to relate to people sometimes. Friends talk about things that happened back home but I can't use my stories to relate. My life is different than most and I find it increasingly difficult to go back to the states and be the person that people knew and expect me to be.

Berlin was a good time. We did a city tour that was helpful understanding the history. After a few days we caught the train to Amsterdam. I bought the train ticket at the station for 120 Euros. I should have booked ahead because it could have been much cheaper. We stayed with a friend of a friend in The Hague outside Amsterdam for a few days. We went to the Escher Museum. It was really cool. We also went to Kings Day in Amsterdam. It was basically a big party because everyone had off. I split from my friends because they went to Paris. I stayed in the city for another night and went to the Bansky/Warhol museum. It was nice to see but not as interesting as Escher. I just got into London today. I took a night bus for 35 Euros. I thought it was a good idea and would save me a night's accommodation. It turned out being pretty tiring. I had to get off the bus a few times to deal with customs, which we didn't deal with from Germany to the Netherlands. Also on the ferry I had to get off the bus and wait in a different area. All this means I didn't get much sleep.

Today I plan on meeting up with Rob in the afternoon. I'm staying in Paddington, which I know nothing about. It's sunny and the weather is nice so I look forward to exploring the city.

Wednesday, April 13, 2016

Wild Coast South Africa

After Oudtshoorn I stayed in Wilderness for a night. It was a pretty beach town with some hiking and a big tree.

Then I went to Knysna for a night. I got to play golf and checked out Mitchell's Brewery. On the way out I drove through Natures Valley, which was a nice ride through the mountains. I did a bungy jump while heading towards the next stop as well. It was 216 meters off a bridge. I've done one before but this one was quite a bit higher. It was definitely worth 890 Rand (about 61 USD).

I headed to Jefferys Bay next. It is a surfer town famous for a shark attach at a big surfing event last year. I tried sand boarding again, but it wasn't nearly as big or good as the time I did it in Namibia. I bummed around J Bay for a few days before heading off.

Next stop was Hogsback. It's a little mountain town inland from the coast. I spent a few days hiking and checking out the area. When I left it was raining, but I still decided to take the back dirt road out. Probably not a great idea. The ride went smooth but it was slippery and some of the road was washed out. The route I took while leaving was about 370 km, but it took me most of the day to get to Coffee Bay because it rained nearly the entire time.

I spent 6 nights hanging out in Coffee Bay. There's a beautiful hike along the coast line to Hole in the Wall. I spent a lot of time on the beach and doing day motorcycle trips along the back roads. At some point I bent my rear rim pretty significantly. I deflated the tire and used a hammer and wood to try and get it back to the correct shape. I got it fixed pretty well but took it to a local guy to check it out. He said there was nothing more to do because we could crack the rim if we kept working on it. The chain also came off while I was in the middle of nowhere. I tightened it but it came off again yesterday. Coffee Bay was a great stop and I met some cool people. Six nights flew by.

After Coffee Bay I spent a night in Port St Johns. I stayed at a strange Backpackers. The guy camping next to me was talking to his two cats for most of the night. I didn't get much sleep and left early the next morning.

Now I'm in Umzumbe. It's about 100 km south of Durban. I plan to stay here a few nights. It's a nice Backpackers that seems like a jungle by the beach.

Over the last couple months I've done a lot more dirt roads than I had early in the trip. Now I'm taking it easy because of the bent rim. Next time I will use a bigger motorcycle and be more prepared.  This trip has gone by quick and with a week left in Africa I know that I didn't get enough. Using a motorcycle changed the whole dynamic of the trip. It gave me freedom and a hobby. I'm a little bummed that I have to give the bike away soon, but it wouldn't be worth it to ship it home anyway. It'd probably cost more than the bike is worth plus I gave my word. Yesterday I passed 15,000 km so I feel that I've gotten pretty good use out of it. Still, the bike has become like my home. It's strange to say but I've depended on it so much that I've become attached to it. I've unpacked and repacked it so many times that its become a habit. It's been an amazing trip so far.