Finishing the bike trip

Got done the motorcycle trip today, so Im back in Manali. It went pretty well. My friend went over his handlebars once and his bike broke down yesterday. He is taking a bus back today because they cant fix his bike in Kasol. He's ok but they are probably going to charge him to get the bike back here and fix it.

We ended up going from Dharamsala to Shimla and then looping back here. Everything went fairly smoothly. It took me a few days to get used to the bike and it was difficult to start in the mornings. Some of the roads were next to steep cliffs so it was a little stressful at times. There were also a lot big trucks, cows, buses, and other obstacles on the narrow roads.

It was a nice ride because we spent a night or two in small towns on the way to reaching the more traveled destinations like Dharamsala, Shimla, and Kasol. The Dalai Lama got back the day we were in his town. We saw him drive by in his car. It doesn't really count as seeing him, but it was something.

This trip is pretty much over now. Two more nights in Manali, one night traveling to Delhi, and then one night in Delhi.

Overall it was a really good experience. I have never been to a country that I loved and hated so much throughout the trip. There were days when I wanted to just leave. Then there were days I thought that I could live here. Its more diverse then most places. Every state in India is almost like a different country. The Himalayas have been spectacular. Driving through them by bike was one of the best ways to see them.

There is no way to see all of India in the amount of time I spent here. I feel like I saw a good amount but I would do things differently next time. It would be better to focus on one area and doing more of it by motorcycle. Anyway all is good and Im excited to get home and enjoy some time with the family.

Until next time, its been good.

Manali to Dharamsala

I rented an Enfield for 10 days in Manali. Yesterday we started heading towards Dharamsala. Last night we stayed in a small town called Kullu. Now we are staying the night in Joginder Nagar, which seems pretty nice so far. We should be be in Dharamasala tomorrow night then we will loop back towards Manali. The ride has been pretty nice so far. It rains sometimes but we usually just stop until it passes. The roads go through the mountains so it takes quite a while to cover a fairly short distance. 

I had a little trouble with the bike before leaving Manali. The kick start lever fell off. I got that fixed and its been running pretty well. It cost me 600 Rupees per day (about 12 USD). It is kind of expensive but seems to be worth it. 

I have a bus ticket back to Delhi on the 7th. That means I will be there on the 8th and can catch my flight on the  9th. The bus from Delhi to Manali took about 18.5 hours. Hopefully we make better time going back because its much less comfortable taking buses through the mountains then trains. 

Its beautiful up here. The mountains are a nice change from the chaos of the cities. Its like a completely different world.

Khajuraho to Delhi

On the way to Khajuraho we stopped in Allahabad for a night. There was a festival so the town turned out to be pretty interesting. Its also on the Ganga but further up from Varanasi, so its cleaner.
Khajuraho had some really nice temples. We also biked 27 km to a waterfall while there. The locals all said it was really beautiful. They didn't tell us that its only a waterfall during the monsoon. So we didnt actually see any waterfall. None the less the bike ride was a nice change from sitting on trains.
After Khajuraho we stopped in Agra on the way back to Delhi. We were there less then 24 hours, but I got to see the Taj Mahal. It was really impressive.
Yesterday we took the train to Delhi. Tonight we are taking a bus to Manali which is in the mountains in the north. Its probably going to be a 17 or 18 hour ride.
Lately I have been moving really quickly. I've been taking night trains a lot and not staying in one place too long. Usually I dont like to travel that way, but its been good. I only needed a day to see Khajuraho and a day at the Taj.
I have 2 weeks left in India. Im going to try to hang out some place for at least a few days during that time. If its possible I might try to see the Dalai Lama in Dharamsala. Its probably a days travel from Manali.  
(When I say we Im talking about me and a Dutch guy Ive been traveling with since Kolkata)
  

Kolkata

On the train ride here we got general unreserved tickets. That means we had to fight our way in for a seat on an overbooked train. It took 12 hours and was pretty interesting. There were people sleeping on the floor and a fight broke out.

A couple of days ago I went to a cricket game with a few guys. It was a big stadium and a good time. During 1/2 time I went to get a couple of sodas and had to fight my way to the front of the "line". Getting out was even harder because everyone was trying to move forward. One of the guys that went with me got his camera stolen in the chaos. That was one of the most intense crowds Ive seen so far.

My plan was to head to Delhi yesterday, but I met up with some friends from the trek so I stayed here a bit longer. The city is really hot but Im starting to like it more everyday. Im going to head out within the next few days. My plan is to go to Khajuraho then north of Delhi. Hopefully I will get back into the mountains and out of the heat for a bit.

Its difficult to decide what to do because I have to be in Delhi on May 8th at the latest. Ive been taking night trains mostly which saves me a night's accommodation and it doesnt take up a day. Getting to Khajuraho is probably going to take me at least a day because there is no direct route. My plans might change but now I have a tentative schedule.

Finished the trek and heading to Kolkata

The trek went really well. The first day it was rainy and there was practically no view. On the second day it snowed then we saw the mountains for sunset. The 3rd day we woke up at 4 am to see the sun rise. It was clear and we were able to see the 3rd highest peak in the world. The views made the trek really incredible. Three of us decided to trek back to Yuksom (the town we started in) after breakfast. We hiked about 26 km yesterday so that we could catch a jeep this morning to get to the railroad station a day earlier. Now Im heading to Kolkata. Its going to be a big hot city. Numerous people told me to go there so hopefully its nice.

Something random: there is a huge spider on my backpack right now. It freaked me out a little, so Im going to have to take care of that now.

Sikkim

It took us over 24 hours to get from Varanasi to Darjeeling using two trains then a jeep ride through the mountains. We spent a couple days there checking out the cable cars and tea plantations. After that we took two jeeps to get to Sikkim. It was through mountain passes with no guard rails so it made me a little nervous but it was beautiful. I had to get a permit to come to this part of India, but it was free. Tomorrow 6 of us are doing a 4 day trek in the Himalayas. We are on the west side of Sikkim near the boarder of Nepal. We have a yak and a guide so it shouldn't be too difficult. I think the highest point will be below 5000 meters, so the altitude may cause some shortness of breath.

Leaving Varanasi

Im catching a couple trains to Darjeeling this afternoon. Its a Himalayan city to the north. I dont know that much about it but it looks pretty.

Varanasi has been really interesting. I have never been to a city anything like it. There is a crematory on the river where they burn bodies 24 hours a day. It made me uncomfortable to watch the cremations, but its normal in their lifestyle. I took a boat ride on the river and the guide said they burn 150 - 200 bodies a day. There are a few cases where the bodies don't get burned and they just sink them in the river (ie. pregnant women or children under 12). That means you can see bodies and body parts floating in the river. I also saw them put a cow in the middle and watched it float down. People still use the river for bathing and washing their clothes. Its pretty amazing that it doesnt make them sick. They have been doing it their entire life so I guess their immune system is different.

I do like the city though. There is something about it that is alluring. From what I understand nobody knows how old it is. Some people have told me that its the oldest city in the world. I asked the boat guide and he said he honestly didnt know.

If I had more time in India I would stay here longer. I know there is a lot more to see.

Varanasi

I stayed in Delhi for a couple of days. I liked it quite a bit. The metro was really clean and nice. There is a backpacker ghetto that is similar to Khoa San road in Bangkok. Its not peaceful or nice, but its an easy place to meet other travelers. Its also right next to the train station.

There was a really nice European style area called Hauz Khas Village. It was a break from some of the chaos in the city.

Traveling alone didn't last long. I met someone the first night in Delhi and hung out with him a few days. Then on the way to the metro I met another guy and caught a train with him to Varanasi (about 12 hrs away). We got here a couple hours ago. Its full of really narrow streets and on the Ganges. I havent had time to look around the city yet, but Im about to head out and do that.

I think that traveling alone will have to wait for a little bit longer. Its nice to travel with people because everything is cheaper and you have someone to keep an eye on your stuff. Its also interesting to learn how other people travel. Most of the people I travel with live in countries that I have never even visited. I learn a lot about their countries along with learning about what others think about the US. Its really amazing how easy it is to meet people when you travel. It usually takes almost no effort and within a couple days you really get to know the person.

Leaving the South

Im flying to Delhi today. I probably should have just taken a train, but it would have taken a few days.

Yesterday was the first day I was alone this trip. I had been traveling with a German friend for a couple weeks and before that some other girls. It is nice to be alone for now and have time to think. Im staying at a hostel in Delhi, so I probably wont be alone for long.

I dont really have a plan for the North. Going to the Taj Mahal at some point and I would like to do a trek.

It has taken me this long to get back into the traveling mode. Now I feel like Im ready to get into it. Its nice that I am flying north, so I will have a new start.

Kochi

After Mysore we went to Ooty to see the hill stations. It was really pretty taking a train through the mountains.

Now Im in Kochi which is in Kerala. Its on the southern tip of India. Im going to stay here for a few days. There are backwater cruises where you float down a river. After that Im going to catch a flight to Delhi to see the north. It would take 3 days by train, so Im not doing that this time.

This trip has been different then I expected. India is way too big to see in a couple months. Im trying to hit all the main points, but it would probably be better to see one region. Moving from place to place quickly doesnt give me time to really see and learn about the culture. It seems like the only way to really get to know a place is to live there. Its frustrating moving all the time. Thats what happens when you travel with a deadline. Either way its still nice and I have more time then a lot of people.

Mysore

The train rides to Mysore went well. The sleeper class isn't bad, but it would have been nice to bring a sheet or something to lay on. I got on a train to Mysore as soon as I got to Bangalore.

Mysore is nice. Its got a lot of culture and bazaars. Probably going to stay one more night.

Stayed in a Youth Hostel dorm last night for 75 rps (about $1.50) with a student id card. It was pretty weird. There was a 10:30 pm curfew and no alcohol allowed. It was also filled with Indian students, which was kind of cool.

I'm stuck on this Lonely Planet loop of South India right now. Its annoying me. Someone gave me a Lonely Planet in Goa and Ive had it ever since. It is helpful, but everywhere I go I see the same type of people doing the same things. Its the first time Ive ever carried one with me and I don't like it. When I get to the North I don't want to use a book.

Leaving Hampi

Hampi is nice but I already left. Im in Hospet for the day then catching a night train to Bangalore. We got sleeper class so it should be interesting. After that I think Im going to Mysore. There is a Tuk Tuk driver waiting for us so got to go.

Palolem Beach and Hampi

I spent about a week on Palolem beach in South Goa. I would suggest that anyone coming to India make it their last stop rather then one of their firsts. I almost couldn't leave. Its touristy, but you will meet people from all over. Its laid back, but there is stuff to do. It has a noise ordinance so some of the parties were Silent Discos (a bunch of people partying with headphones on), which were more fun than I expected. Not to mention bonfires on the beach, kayaking, skim boarding, and hiking. Really nice place.

Yesterday I got on a night bus to Hampi. Its a town with ancient ruins on a river. Pretty cool so far. Its been really hot, but its worth sweating. Im going to stay here for at least one more night. After that Im not sure.

Goa

Ive been in Goa for a few days. I started at Anjuna Beach for 3 nights. I also checked out Baga while I was up there. Anjuna was full of hippies listening to trance music. The hippies there make American hippies look conservative. Baga was packed with Indian tourist, so it was a little more interesting. Today I got to Pololem Beach in southern Goa. I will stay here for a night or two then head further south. I think the beach here is prettier then up north. The beaches have been relaxing, but I havent really seen Indian culture (with the exception of Mumbai). There are elections in Goa right now so no alcohol was served on March 1, 2, and 3. Today is also a dry day.

Mumbai day 3

Last night was the first night I slept more then 2 hours since Ive been here. The jet lag got to me a little + staying in a dorm room with mosquitoes made it tough. Yesterday I was in a Bollywood commercial for Nikon. I left Mumbai at 7 am and didnt get back till midnight. We were supposed to be done at 6 pm but they didnt really let us leave. I made 1000 rupees out of the deal. Thats about $20. Tonight Im catching a bus to Goa. Its a state south of Mumbai. I think its pretty touristy, but it will be nice to chill on the beach for a while.

Mumbai

Im going to use this blog again to keep track of where I am. I flew into Mumbai this evening. India is 10.5 hours ahead of New York. The flight from Newark was about 13 hours. I plan on being back in the US by May 11th. I dont have a definite plan for while Im here, but I will probably try to go to the Taj Mahal (Agra) and Goa. I think I will be in Mumbai for a few days. I fly out of the same airport so I will be back either way.