Saturday, February 13, 2016

Lilongwe

After Cape MaClear we stopped in Senga Bay for a couple nights. It was a nice fishing village. We did an island trip but didn't stay too long.

Next was Nkhata Bay. I stayed for about a week. Its on Lake Malawi and there was plenty to do. Our accommodation had paddle boards, kayaks, and canoes. I spent about $30 a day for accommodation, food and drinks. Seems a little expensive for Africa but not too bad for an all inclusive holiday. We met up with several friends that we had known along the way, including one guy we hadn't seen since Durban. We also took a trip to Likoma island for a couple nights.

While in Nkhata Bay a friend stopped in that I hadn't seen since Mozambique. He said he was staying with a family north of Mzuzu and asked if I wanted to come with him. I spent a couple nights staying with him and a local family in their village. While there we drove up to Nyika National Park. I was told their vehicle was a 4x4 but turns out it was 2 wheel drive. We had to push it out of the mud several times and one time crashed into a ditch. No one got hurt and the car was fine. At the park we saw a lot of Zebras and animals that looked like antelopes. The drive there was all dirt roads and it took us all day to get there and back even though it wasn't that far in kilometers.

Yesterday I drove 400+ kilometers to get to Lilongwe. I left around 430am and it rained on and off all day. I wont leave that early again. It was dark and raining for the first hour. It made for a pretty difficult morning considering I didn't have a map or really know my way around. It was a pretty ride when it wasn't raining.

Rob and I split up after I left Nkhata Bay. Hes heading north towards Tanzania and I'm heading back to South Africa. In total we drove over 6400 kilometers together through 4 countries. We were similar in ways but also very different. I think we made a pretty good team all together. It is exciting to be on my own. It feels like a whole new challenge and a new trip all together.

Malawi has been an amazing country. Over the last month Ive learned a lot about the people and the problems they're facing. For one, there are people everywhere on the roads. You think you're in the middle of nowhere but still there are people walking every 50 yards. Also, many people live in very rural areas. When we drove to Nyika Park we drove for hours on a dirt road that was really rough. Still there were people everywhere. Its apparent that if there were any medical emergencies it would take help hours to get there and back to a hospital. A medical student I met here told me there are 250 doctors in the entire country. The people are also very religious. There are a lot of Christians and mosques seem to be popping up everywhere. The coffin industry seems to be big here as well. Every third village has a coffin shop. The people watch a lot of religious television including the prophet Major 1. While staying with the family they watched him the majority of the time. Reading the newspapers shows even more issues. Such as corruption, women's rights, witch hunts, and more. Ive seen children working everywhere. They are either selling things like charcoal, chickens, or vegetables on the side of the road or working in the fields. Its conflicting, I don't want to buy from kids because I think they should be in school but they are going to be working either way. The major crops look like corn and tobacco. People eat a lot of Nsima which is a corn product similar to Pap in South Africa.

I will head to Zambia tomorrow or the next day. I need to find a map today. Most people here have cell phones with data. Many locals even use WhatsApp. I don't have a phone, it makes things more difficult but its nice to get away. On the other hand I do feel disconnected from issues back home. It is a tough balance to find. At any given hostel you'll see nearly everyone on their cell phones or laptops. You could travel all over the world and never really leave westerners, especially if you're driving your own car. At least on a motorcycle I'm forced to communicate with locals and take breaks every 100 kms. Any form of travel would bring a different experience. Local transport is probably the most cultural but it is tough here. I'm happy with my decision to motorcycle. Anyways, I'm ranting now so I'm done. Next stop Zambia.

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